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Sonja's Travels - A lone western female traveling the Far East

Note: Sonja is a scuba diving intern here with us at Mermaids Dive Center in Pattaya, Thailand. Sonja isSonja - diver - adventurer from the Midlands in the UK and a wonderful girl. Certainly not one to shy away from adventure Sonja decided to turn the negative boredom of a visa run (updating a visa) into a really positive adventure travel around South East Asia for a month...and why not? Please do read Sonja's account of her trip. (Un-edited).

The hangover from hell, the early morning rise with zero sleep, the cramped minibus blaring insanely painful Thai music………..the dreaded visa run.

At some point all of us interns here in Pattaya have to make a trip to a border, even with a multi-entry educational visa. However, this doesn’t have to be such a tiresome ordeal as you may expect.

What started out for me as a three day visa run, and temple tour to Cambodia quickly became a month long backpacking adventure. And lets face it, apart from scuba diving, (of course) that’s what we all come here to do.

I had no idea that travel could be achieved so easily, and cheaply, particularly for a young single girl, until I actually arrived in Siem Reap. With a luxury coach ticket from there to Cambodia’s capital city, Phnom Penh, costing only nine dollars, I set about the beginning of my mini adventure.

The day I arrived in Cambodia, I must admit, the nerves were silently shaking! Especially as I realized I had actually arrived in the dusty border town of Duan Lem rather than the casino town of Poipet I had been expecting!

Originally, I planned to take the afternoon bus straight to Siem Reap, however as there are no buses from Duan Lem I resigned myself to taking a taxi, this was the most expensive journey I paid for during my entire excursion!

In hindsight, I could have reduced this cost by taking a taxi only to Battambang, and spending the night there to then go on to catch the bus to Siem Reap the next day. This would have immensely & appreciatively broken up the six hour long dusty, red, and extremely bumpy road journey! (I say road however, I really should say the worst dirt track in the world! Unless of course you have a Land Rover with a V8 engine, a lot of gasoline & enjoy off-roading).

On my arrival in Siem Reap I made my way to the Greentown Guesthouse which had been recommended to me, and although it was very basic for a meager three dollars a night-who can complain?

The Cambodians really are genuine lovely people, and will do anything to ensure you feel comfortable, safe, and happy. I soon befriended a member of staff, Nak. Within a few moments Nak had my tickets for the temples sorted and, the next day off we went a touring.

Faces of Bayon, Siem ReapThe temples of Angkor are a must if you pass through Cambodia. I would recommend that you reverse the normal route so that you start with the oldest temples first and, finish with the most recent to date. This allows you to see the progression of the architectural structure, and amazing stone carvings over time.

If you can handle early rises then defiantly enjoy a beautiful sun rise, if you prefer to sleep in then aim for the sunset. Both are truly inspirational but, do try to find a nice quiet spot as it can become quite busy with all the tourists.

If you intend to do Siem Reap on a budget then your hostel will more than likely not have a pool. So, if you fancy a relaxing day sunning yourself then why not head down to the recently opened Aqua bar run by Bristol ex-pat John.Ruins at Ta Prohm, Siem reap

For two dollars a day you can swim in the pool for as long or as little as you like.

Doubled with the intense heat, and the fact the pool has a built in bar you won’t want to leave! Alternatively, you can relax in the hammocks, play chess on the giant table or marvel at Johns snake collection! John is a great source of travel information so if you’re feeling "Temple’d out" then it’s definitely worthwhile heading down there.

So, after a relaxing (And slightly drunken!) afternoon spent at the Aqua bar I headed down to Phnom Penh on the (Semi!) luxury coach. On arrival at the coach station I found myself overwhelmed by Tuc-Tuc drivers all touting for my fare. This can be quite un-nerving especially for a lone female traveler; however Tuc-Tucs are very safe. If you’d rather not tackle them alone to begin with then it’s very easy to jump in with a couple of other Westerners as they do all tend to head to the same backpacker area.

Ta Prohm Temple, Siem Reap. Not quite a Lara Croft!Phnom Penh is a very relaxed city, particularly the backpacker area. I recommend finding a hostel on the lakeside. Try Number Nine Sister or Lakeside Guest House. Both are within a tight budget, clean, and have very friendly, helpful staff. After a hard coach journey it’s great to sit, and watch the sun go down across the lake sipping a cocktail or the local beer.

The main attractions in Phnom Penh are the infamous Killing Fields, and S-21 prison from the Khmer Rouge Regime. Both can be done in a day, and upsetting as it may that human nature can sometimes be that cruel, I feel that if we are honored enough to be able to visit such places where atrocities against human kind have taken place it’s our duty to visit them and, hopefully educate people that maybe will never get the chance to experience them.

If you find you have a couple of days spare while visiting Cambodia’s capital then try to spend a day about the town as there are some nice local attractions worth seeing. With its relaxed feel, and friendly locals it’s very easy to navigate your way around with the help of a local map.

You can also spend a day working with children, and give something back to this special city. The street kids are really great, and in all honesty it is hard to see them working instead of playing. To be able to spend a day with them painting and telling stories is extremely rewarding, and great fun to boot.Original Sleeping Buddha, Phnom Kulen, Siem Reap

There are some great little bars/cafes down Backpacker Street. There were two in particular I frequented on several occasions. The lazy Gecko Café, and The Moskito Bar. The Lazy Gecko Café is a great place for vegetarians, vegans and, anyone who loves organic food. The bannoffee pie is a must! (Especially if you haven’t seen your boyfriend for a while!) With its own movie room, and book collection it’s easy to lose an afternoon there.

Moskito Bar is exactly as it sounds, a buzzing little bar! (Pun totally intended!) Recently opened by Glaswegian ex-pat Eddie, Moskitos is a trendy little place with extremely comfy sofas that stays open until the last person leaves. Eddie has a lot of fantastic theme nights he wants to introduce so it’s well worth a visit…..or two.

Now, for those of you who just cannot resist the lull of the ocean, head to down to Shianoukville. It’s only a short coach ride from Phnom Phen, and really shows Cambodia at its best, and most relaxed.

With approximately eight different beaches to chose from you really are spoilt for choice. The nicest beaches I found were Occheuteal and, Serendipty. If you’re looking for complete R&R then head to Occheuteal Beach as Serendipity can become over crowded being a popular backpacker haunt.

If you find you are beginning to dry out on land then head to Victory Hill to book you’re diving with Gerrard at Scuba Nation. The friendly Dutch owner offers overnight trips to some of the nicer dive areas, and what better way to wile away an evening after a days diving than staring up at the stars shining over the sea.

Scuba Nation is a very professional PADI outfit, and while Gerrards prices may be slightly more than his competitor the quality of service, and equipment certainly outweighs this cost.

So, onto the next leg of my journey which led me through to Vietnam. From Shainoukville I had to head back to Phnom Penh as the only way to the Vietnamese border from Sianoukville is by taxi which ultimately costs a lot more.

Head to a reputable travel agency in Phnom Penh, and your visa shouldn’t cost more than thirty dollars, and take only a couple of days to come through. The coach journey should be roughly fifteen dollars, however expect to pay more if you want to be taken straight through to the border crossing. If you do go for the cheaper option however, it is very straight forward finding your way through, and there are plenty of people on route if you take a wrong turn or find yourself feeling confused.

Be sure to change most of your remaining Cambodian Riel, and Dollars to Vietnamese Dong before you leave, but do hold some back as there are some small fees you will need to pay at the border crossing. About five Dollars should be sufficient.

Most people tend to go straight through to the old capital of the south of Vietnam, Saigon which is now called Ho Chi Minh City. This is what I opted to do. The coach I was on had a tour representative who gave us plenty of information on what to do, and where to go upon arrival.

We were able to leave our rucksacks at the tour shop while we headed off to find accommodation. If you’re not lucky enough to have such a tour representative then find the nearest tour shop, and ask for a map of the area. Also ask if you can leave your belongings while you search for somewhere to stay. I met plenty of people that did this, and experienced no problems in doing so.

There are plenty of quaint little guesthouses to choose from. If you’re on a budget stay clear of the larger establishments, and head to one of the side alleys. They are perfectly safe, and house many little guesthouses which are usually family run. You can haggle on the price particularly in low season with a larger discount for the longer you stay.

Ho Chi Minh is a bustling place with a real down town Vietnam feel. It is a must visit if you pass through with its French, and Chinese influence it pays for a harmonious feel. It’s true to say that life in Vietnam lives on the streets. Everything happens there from cooking, gossiping to business meetings. It’s fast pace to catch up with modern day life intertwined with the Pagodas of the past make it a bewitching, and hypnotic city.

During my Stay I visited the Cu Chi Tunnels, the War Remnants museum and, spent a day about the town. The Cu Chi Tunnels are great place to go, and see. Steeped in the history of the Vietnamese war it really opens your eyes to the Vietnamese peoples struggle for freedom of occupation against the one of the world’s super powers. With their limited weapons at the time it really is quite amazing how they utilized the land, and surroundings to fight a battle that would go on for ten long years.

Cu Chi Tunnels Vietnam Captured Tank, Cu Chi Tunnels, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

The War Remnants museum can be quite stressful especially if you have never experienced anything like it before so why not head to the Reunification Palace or Ben Thanh Market in the afternoon. With the French design of the city, and the clearly signposted streets it’s very easy to navigate your way around, and can make for a very pleasant stroll.

The Mekong Delta trips are defiantly worthwhile doing also, as you really get a lot more than your moneys worth. If nothing else it’s worth going just for the short detour to the sweetie factory. Try the handmade coconut, and chocolate ones! Delicious!

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Updated (09:08 - Thai Time) Thursday 2nd July 2009

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